Do you remember a time when classic Mustang carpeting looked old and worn out from wear and you couldn't buy it anywhere? That was during the mid-'70s when the only choice available was universal auto carpet kits from J.C. Whitney or your favorite local auto parts store. The carpet wasn't molded, either, which made a classic Mustang more closely resemble your father's Studebaker than a contemporary '60s classic.

When the Mustang parts industry was born in the late '70s, the field was wide open. Many of the big names in this business, including Mustangs Unlimited, started from modest beginnings. In 1978, Jack Holland founded Auto Custom Carpets and began selling molded carpet for older automobiles. In 1984, he purchased Academy Carpets in Dalton, Georgia, and started making his own molded carpeting. In the years since, Auto Custom Carpets has been serving the hobby well with high-quality molded (and custom) carpeting for vintage Mustangs.

We're going to show you how to replace Mustang molded carpeting, as well as some options available from Mustangs Unlimited and Auto Custom Carpets.

Xtreme Carpeting
If you're building a restomod or want something different, consider Xtreme Flooring from Auto Custom Carpets. We're talking hot colors-Limelite Green, Flaming Fuchsia, Electric Blue, Chrome Yellow, Royal Purple, White, and Hugger Orange. It's available for classic or late-model Mustangs. All you have to do is get on the phone and be specific. Auto Custom Carpets will handle the rest.

Custom CarpetingWhen Detroit's Art Cairo was restoring Henry Ford II's '64 1/2 289 Hi-Po hardtop for Ford's 100th Anniversary, he came to us with a request. Because the one-off hardtop had thick-pile custom carpeting, provided by Ford Design 43 years ago, Art needed to install the same material in his restoration. That's when we thought of Auto Custom Carpets.

Although Auto Custom Carpets sells plenty of ready-made 80/20 nylon-pile molded carpet for classic and Fox-bodied Mustangs, you can order just about any kind of material imaginable. If Auto Custom Carpets has it, it can be cut and molded to fit your Mustang. Art needed a thick cut-pile carpet in order to keep his restoration as authentic as possible. He also needed extra carpet for the trunk. Auto Custom Carpets was happy to oblige.

When we ordered Art's custom carpeting from Auto Custom Carpets, they asked us specific questions. Did the car have a vinyl heel pad? Was the carpeting molded? Should it be cut like a '64 1/2 or '65? We checked it all out with Art and passed this information along to Auto Custom Carpets.

For those who dig '71-'73 Mustang performance, here's a couple of handling solutions from Mustangs Plus and Bill Thomas Enterprises. Mustangs Plus gets it right with a selection of cool suspension components. Bill Thomas Enterprises has the talent and goods to build everything from a stock differential to a brute chunk that can take 700 hp. Randy's Ring & Pinion is setting us up with the hard parts necessary to make it happen.

Fourth-generation '71-'73 Mustangs get a lot of criticism for their size and weight, but they aren't much different from '65-'70 Mustangs. Up front, the '71-'73 models employ a Maverick/ Torino/Fairlane unit body structure intended to accommodate big horsepower planned for these cars during the late '60s. Open the hood on a '71-'73 and you'll see big shock towers and a large engine compartment. Insurance rates and government regulations killed the big engines and horsepower that Ford had planned for the Mustang beyond 1971. After the '71 429 Cobra Jet and Boss 351, the horsepower wars came to an end. That doesn't mean you can't get more out of a non-Boss or CJ '71-'73 Mustang. These wide-track models are long on potential and make great road cars.

At the rear, you can ditch the worn-out elliptical four-leaf springs and get into stiffer five-leaf, mideye, down-low performance. Opt for rubber or urethane bushings, depending on the caliber of performance wanted. What's more, choose the right shock absorber for the desired balance of ride and handling. Mustangs Plus offers standard gas shocks, which yield a smooth ride with good handling. KYB gas adjustable shocks from Mustangs Plus offer a stiffer ride with better handling.

When it's time to fit a '71-'73 Mustang with a new rear suspension system, it's wise to consider Ford's heavy-duty 9-inch rearend if you're planning big horsepower and torque gains. The standard 8-inch rearend can stand up to 350 hp, but not continuously without giving up the ghost. For street and weekend strip use, you'll want a four-pinion 9-inch limited-slip for durability and to get as much torque to the ground as possible. Randy's Ring & Pinion offers the 28-spline (PN YDGF-28-SM) or 31-spline (PN YDGF-31-SM) Trac Loc differential for street and strip use. Because it's made from machined billet steel, it's much stronger than a comparable four-pinion Ford unit.

We're fitting a '71 Mustang SportsRoof with stronger underpinnings in front and back. In front, we've already installed a Grab-A-Trak suspension with 620 coils and gas shocks. In back, we're installing five-leaf, mideye springs with gas shocks for an exceptional ride and moderate handling. As we said earlier, shock dampening determines ride. Because a smooth ride was priority, we opted for standard Grab-A-Trak gas shocks instead of stiffer KYBs. The result will be improved handling and a nice ride.

We began our efforts at Bill Thomas Enterprises, building an N-case nodular iron 9-inch Ford differential with 3.55:1 gears from Randy's Ring & Pinion. We've chosen 3.55:1 gears because the owner is going to install an automatic overdrive transmission behind his gutsy 302ci V-8 mill from Trans Am Racing.

Smooth driveability and reliability depend on having a driveshaft and universal joints in good repair. A Mustang's driveline is something you want to know is there without being able to feel it. When the driveshaft and universal joints, or U-joints, are felt and heard, it's usually bad news.

Driveshaft vibration and noise are usually the result of improper dynamic balance, poor runout (shaft not perfectly straight), excessive slip-yoke and bushing wear, defective or worn universal joints, or excessively worn rear-axle pinion bearings.

Wikipedia, a free online encyclopedia that's editable by the public, defines a universal joint as something that allows a rigid rod (shaft) to articulate or bend in any direction. U-joints have a tough task because they transfer an engine's power from the transmission to the rear axle. So they must be strong and capable of articulating with the driveshaft and rear axle, which move up and down with the suspension system as the car rolls down the road.

According to Wikipedia, the universal joint dates back to ancient Greek times. In 1545, an Italian mathematician, Gerolamo Cardano, advanced the idea further, suggesting they be used for transmitting motive power. In the 1600s, Robert Hooke created the first working universal joint, also known as Hooke's joint. Our own Henry Ford coined the name "universal joint." Other names include Cardan joints, Hardy-Spicer joints, and Polhem knots.

Universal joints are chosen for their applications based on vehicle weight, expected duty, and the amount of power the engine will produce. For example, you wouldn't run a six-cylinder universal joint and driveshaft package with a 428 Cobra Jet engine; there wouldn't be enough shaft or U-joint to handle the torque. So we have to size universal joints, driveshafts, and yokes to power, vehicle weight, and anticipated duty for safe, reliable operation.

There are five basic universal joint sizes common to Mustangs. From smallest to largest, they are the Spicer 1100, 1260, 1310, 1330, and 1350. The numbers identify basic dimensions without regard to bearing cap size, which depends on driveshaft and yoke size. For six-cylinder applications, expect to see a Spicer 1100 or 1260. For light-duty V-8 applications, you'll see the Spicer 1310. For heavy-duty applications, such as big-blocks, expect to see the 1330. A popular upgrade from that is the Spicer 1350, which is a race-ready universal joint sized for horrific amounts of torque.

Universal joints are rated based on continuous, endurance, and peak torque. Continuous torque determines how much torque the universal joint can stand for an extended period of time. This is based on the life rating of bearing caps-5,000 hours of operation with the driveshaft at 3 feet misalignment at 100 rpm, which is torture for a U-joint. This is the worst-case scenario, known as B-10 bearing life, for a universal joint. A Mustang will never see this kind of abuse.

Endurance torque is similar to continuous torque, but it's based on reverse torque, with the shaft operating both ways in normal operation. Because we rarely back up the same way we drive forward, this isn't a concern in normal operation. Peak torque is the maximum amount of torque a universal joint can stand before it fails. Ratings are rooted in material strength, which is rooted in material type and thickness. The larger a universal joint, the stronger it is. You must also have a shaft large enough to back up that strength. As a rule, it's impossible to get one without the other thanks to manufacturers' yoke sizing.

Ordering A New Shaft
Inland Empire Driveline and Mustangs Plus keep ready-to-order driveshaft assemblies on the shelf for most Mustang applications. Inland Empire Driveline can make a custom driveshaft if you follow the proper measuring instructions on its Web site. Measure "X" from the rear axle yoke to the tip of your transmission tailshaft housing with the rear suspension at normal ride height. Allow "Y" distance for slip-yoke travel-normally around 1-1/2 inches of exposed slip-yoke from where the yoke meets the universal joint to tailshaft seal. Be specific when you order, including universal joint dimensions at both ends.

Another important thing to remember is to keep your driveline parallel, which means each end of the driveshaft (both yokes) should be parallel at all times. Odd angles will cause vibration and failure. Pinion and rear universal joint angle should be at the same number of degrees as the front universal joint for smooth operation.

Tube diameter depends on application. Here's how Mustang steel driveshaft tube sizing from the factory works:

Tube diameter and material thickness increase for aluminum shafts. Aluminum driveshafts aren't suggested for every application. Opt for one in a six-cylinder or small-block, while steel is suggested for big-block Mustangs. For those with healthy budgets and imagination, Inland Empire Driveline can build a composite shaft that's even lighter than aluminum. It also looks high-tech for your restomod show car.

I was looking through e-mail when something from Dave Kunz popped up on the screen. Dave owns what is undoubtedly the most accurate '68 Bullitt Mustang replica fastback out there. Ford has used his Mustang in advertisements and television commercials here and abroad. It's officially the unofficial Bullitt replicar that everyone recognizes.

Dave learned about an awesome '67 Shelby reproduction steering wheel, produced in Switzerland and available from Branda Performance in Pennsylvania. We admit to sticker shock regarding the retail price of $2,500, although Dave says he was able to pick up his for less. Because these steering wheels are handmade and feature exceptional quality, they don't come cheap. They aren't produced in large numbers either, so be prepared if they're temporarily out of stock. Based on the look and feel, they're worth it.

Just ask Dave.

We're the most informed generation in world history. We have the Internet, television, radio, print media, two kinds of telephones, videotapes and discs, and a host of other methods of communication. It's because of this that we insist on as many means as possible to let us know what's happening underhood.

Ford provides more instrumentation than it did 40 years ago, but we still want more. We want to know exhaust gas and engine oil temperature, supercharger boost pressure, and automatic transmission fluid temperature. The problem is, our dashboard doesn't have much room for aftermarket instrumentation.

We're not sure who thought of it first, but the windshield pillar cluster is a great idea for added instrumentation. It keeps the gauges out of the way in a quick, at-a-glance location within the driver's field of vision, enabling a view of the road while monitoring engine and driveline vitals.

Anything can be installed in a windshield pillar cluster, including a clock. With help from BBK Performance, we'll show you how to install one in an afternoon.

In our July '07 issue, we showed the installation of Reen-machine's high-performance halogen headlight system that fits all '65-'68 and '70-'73 Mustangs ("How to Upgrade Your Headlights," p. 38). Those cars use a pair of 7-inch headlights, meaning they won't fit '69 Mustangs. They're the only vintage Mustangs that use four lights with separate high-beams.

After that story ran, it became apparent to Reenmachine that offering a four-light system for '69 Mustangs or any car that uses 531/44-inch headlights would be a good idea.

With that in mind, we headed to Reenmachine in Ventura, California, to show the installation process for putting the lights in a '69. The procedure is basically the same as for the two-light setups, save for the two additional high-beam lights and a few other tasks.

To refresh, there's more to it than putting new headlights on an early car. The electrical wiring wasn't designed to handle the power draw from modern halogen and Xenon headlights. That's one of the things covered here, since simply swapping a headlight isn't really much more work than changing a household light bulb.

The Reenmachine package consists of four Delta high-performance halogen H4 headlights and a modern high-output, relay-driven wiring harness. The key to the two- and four-light systems is the harness that bypasses the car's existing headlight wiring and employs the new wiring for a safe and effective upgrade. It's an outstanding setup and we were enthusiastic to show shop owner Pete Waydo installing the system on our '69 Mustang project car.

One of the most notable and unique features on some '67 Shelby GT500s were the center-mounted foglights in the car's grille. Though not legal in all states, the lights located only an inch or so from one another is a trick-looking arrangement that seems natural for the current retro-designed S197 Mustang.

Although the center foglight grille has been around for a while, we still want to see what's involved in its installation. As it turns out, fitting the grille isn't very difficult, and the result is a unique styling component for '05-'08 Mustang GTs that can be ordered right off Mustang Racing Technologies' Web site for $170. The grille, made by 3D Carbon, was in place on our '05 GT subject car in about an hour.

Finally, note that this grille only fits GTs-not V-6 Mustangs or Shelby GT500s. The GT's original light housings are reused with the new grille; V-6 cars aren't equipped with foglights and GT500s have a unique front fascia that has the foglights mounted below the headlights.

Our friend Gary Mattson of Simi Valley, California, has a fundamental problem. He doesn't want his new Optima dry-cell battery falling into the cooling fan. The factory battery tray uses a battery lip hold-down, which works well with Autolite Sta-Ful reproductions and many aftermarket batteries. But there are now aftermarket lead/acid batteries, not to mention Optima dry-cell batteries, which require a top-mount battery tray.

For those who aren't concerned with originality, Virginia Classic Mustang offers a top-mount battery tray for '65-'66 models, like those from the factory with '67-and-later Mustangs. This easy swap is accomplished in about 20 minutes and it keeps your Optima battery in place.

Few things in the recent past equal the excitement of Ford's all-new yet retro '05-'07 Mustang. Sales have been quite healthy, with no drop in sight despite rising fuel prices. The message in 2006 is much the same as it was in 1964: We love Mustangs. So bring on the petrol and let's go cruising.

Ford has brought us one heck of a base Mustang for '05-'06 with its powerful 4.0L SOHC V-6 as standard equipment, borrowed from the Ranger and Explorer parts bin. The 4.0L Vulcan V-6 is based on the proven Mustang II pushrod V-6s from long ago. We can even trace it further back to Ford's '62 Mustang I concept car, which had a V-4 version of the Vulcan V-6. So within the new V-6 Mustang beats sits the original two-seat concept car. With all this spirit, it seems logical to add even more performance and image to '05-'07 V-6 Mustangs.

Because the Vulcan overhead cam V-6 has a rich, European tone right off the assembly line, you might be inclined to ask how it could sound any better. Flowmaster has always been interested in vehicle sound, not to mention performance. That's why its mufflers can be identified without actually seeing the vehicle, even by people who don't know automobiles.

Flowmaster's American Thunder series mufflers and exhaust systems are quick bolt-on solutions to both performance and sound. American Thunder systems are available for '65-'73 classic Mustangs as well as '79-'04 Fox-bodies, just in case you happen to be interested in a throaty bark at the tailpipes. Flowmaster continues its Mustang spirit with the American Thunder series systems for '05-'07 Mustangs. We ordered the American Thunder muffler designed specifically for new V-6 Mustangs (PN 17421) and were pleasantly surprised by the rich tone.

We stopped by LaBree Motor-sports in Southern California where Brent LeBree and his son, Greg, were installing a Flowmaster American Thunder muffler on an '06 Mustang coupe.

Quiet door operation doesn't just come from proper striker adjustment or new door-perimeter weatherstripping. It also comes from having window glass that doesn't rattle-easily done with new window channels and weatherstrips. They also make for smooth operation when it's time to roll the window up and down. This is an easy fix you can accomplish in an afternoon.

Sometimes we stumble onto engine projects in the darnedest ways. In this case, we have a Boss 302 that has been sitting around for more than a decade in at least four different machine shops, as well as in my garage. It's a good example of how not to plan and execute an engine project. The engine has been consuming more than its fair share of space lately, so it became a priority.

It belongs to Ron Bramlett of Mustangs Plus in Stockton, California. He initially wanted to build this engine for one of his race cars. After one of my visits to Mustangs Plus, Ron drove me and his Boss 302 engine to Los Angeles. We dropped it off at a local machine shop, which sleeved the block and did much of the machine work. I eventually hauled it to other machine shops where there were several false starts but no progress.

Most of the delays were rooted in hard-to-find parts. A Boss 302 engine isn't the same as the average 289/302. It has a four-bolt main block, a steel crank with a 3-inch stroke, and C3AE-style 289 rod forgings with broad shoulders and larger 3/8-inch bolts. Although the Boss 302 uses 351C head castings, they have different cooling passages. It also uses a unique dual-plane, high-rise intake manifold, which was an issue for us because we didn't have one.

When I told Jim Grubbs of JGM Performance Engineering about the engine, he offered to build it. He thoroughly inspected the C8FE Boss block and D0ZE head castings. Everything checked out. Our block had been successfully sleeved and remained leak tight. Jim measured the bores and pistons, concluding that the block needed needlepoint machining and blueprinting. Our Crower Sportsman rods were ready for inspection and massaging, and Ron's Scat crank with 3-inch stroke was sent to the balancer along with pistons, rings, bearings, rods, a 28-ounce Centerforce flywheel, and a Fluidampr harmonic balancer.

When you build an engine, whether it's a stocker or a high-revving screamer, blueprinting should always be done. Professional engine builders teach us that it's important to look at your engine and see things you've never seen before. Never install parts right out of the box; always inspect and massage them as necessary.

The Block

One-Piece Seals

The Mock-Up
A mock-up can save a lot of grief when it's time for assembly and fire up. Mocking-up an engine early on establishes dimensions, enabling you to correct irregularities before final assembly.

A mock-up involves temporarily assembling the engine-crankshaft, bearings, pistons, and connecting rods-to measure tolerances. It should also include installing the cam and heads to check piston-to-valve clearances. To be absolutely certain of every aspect of an engine build, you need to check everything, including:

What is Blueprinting?
Blueprinting is engine building with strict discipline and attention to detail. True blueprinting is methodical and challenging. It gets in the way of getting the job done quickly, which is why most don't bother with it.

Think of your V-8 engine as eight individual engines on a common crankshaft. Each cylinder bore has its own personality, making a significant contribution along a crank it shares with seven others. Each is important to power and smooth operation. When blueprinting:

The Extra Mile
Modern shop speak teaches us to degree a camshaft during an engine build to ensure the camshaft is all the manufacturer says it is. That's not the only reason for degreeing a camshaft. It also ensures valve timing events as they relate to piston timing. Most engine builders stop at the No. 1 cylinder when degreeing a cam. If you want to be sure, degree on all eight cylinders.

Heads Up!
To understand the Boss 302 cylinder head, you have to go back to 1968 and the 302 Tunnel Port small-block. The 302's tunnel port head had huge ports with a pushrod traveling through them. Although it flowed well at high rpm, torque didn't come on until well above 8,000. The problem was, the engines weren't designed to rev that high. During the 1968 Trans-Am competition, valvetrains failed, not to mention bottom ends, making 1968 one of the worst years for Ford in SCCA competition.

Desperate for solutions, Ford engineers looked to the upcoming canted-valve 351 Cleveland head being developed at the time. It had the same cylinder head bolt pattern and bore spacing as the 289/302, making it a bolt-in for the 302 with minor water jacket modifications and revised pistons. Ford engineers learned the poly-angle valve head delivered better torque at lower rpm ranges.

We haven't tried anything unique with our D0ZE Boss 302 heads. They haven't been ported or fitted with larger valves. Jim installed hardened exhaust valve seats and did a radius valve job to improve airflow without adversely affecting low- to mid-range torque. This approach, coupled with state-of-the-art valve seals, makes the JGM Boss head adequate for street and strip use.

In The Dyno Room
Nothing compares to the dyno to determine whether or not you've chosen the right parts. When we planned this Boss 302 engine a decade ago, we were going to experiment with cylinder heads, camshafts, and intake manifolds. When we decided to blow dust off this Boss 302, we were faced with several critical decisions. Because we wanted to build a streetable Boss, we decided to go with our dusty collection of parts. The cam chosen then was the Crane 27-C9ZZ-A mechanical flat-tappet version with 0.502-inch lift and 292-degree duration-essentially a stock Boss 302 camshaft with a pinch more lift.

We learned on the first few pulls that we had too much carburetor with our 750-cfm Holley 4160 and too little camshaft. Those of you who know Boss 302s know Ford fitted these engines with a 780-cfm Holley but not because that's what they needed. It was what the SCCA mandated for street homologation. The truth is, a box-stock Boss 302 is happiest with a 600 to 650-cfm Holley four-barrel. Unfortunately, we didn't have one.

Jim decided to reduce jet sizing from 0.72 (primaries) and 0.76 (secondaries) to 0.68/0.72. As the engine warmed and rings seated, performance improved considerably, but it was never optimum due to carburetor size. Large-cfm Holleys are too much for stock Boss 302 engines, which is why they struggle in street trim. They lack low-end torque due to a poor combination of large-port heads, excessive carburetor size, and insufficient camshaft.

Jet swaps and carb swaps, along with ignition-timing adjustments, can make significant differences in performance and driveability. We're convinced our Boss 302 would have 10-20 more lb-ft of torque and 10-15 more horsepower with a properly jetted 650-cfm Holley.

Classic Mustangs have always been plagued with cooling issues. When they were first introduced, their cooling systems were fairly effective, especially the base sticker-price models void of air conditioning and other power accessories. As Mustangs took on heat-creating options, cooling capacity began to suffer significantly. In more recent years, we've found innovative ways to improve classic-Mustang cooling systems with three- and four-row radiators, heavy-duty fans, shrouds, and in more recent times, electric cooling fans.

The beauty of electric cooling fans is efficiency. They don't consume power the way an engine-driven fan does. As the engine revs, a mechanical fan takes more power to turn, depending on its design. Electric fans turn at a constant speed as needed without robbing power and fuel.

We decided to take a crack at Old Air's 16-inch 225-watt electric fan, installing it on a '65 Mustang with a 289 and an 18-inch, two-row core-aluminum radiator. It provides 2,320 cfm of air flow. Installation was easy and performance has been exceptional. Once the fan's thermostat is dialed in, cooling is spot-on. The only problem we encountered was the Mustang's 60-amp alternator's ability to keep up. When an electric cooling fan is installed, we suggest the installation of a 100- to 130-amp alternator to keep the battery fully charged.

Fit And Function
Electric fan performance depends on proper fit and operation. The Old Air fan should be close to the radiator but at least 1 inch from the tubes. If you get too close, air stagnation issues can cause hot spots. Positioning the fan at least 1 inch from the radiator core promotes good air flow and better cooling. To achieve the proper distance, shim the fan at its attachment points. Maintain enough clearance between the water pump pulley and fan to ensure there's no chance of interference.

When searching for a power source for your Old Air electric fan, never get it from the positive terminal at your ignition coil. Because the ignition coil gets its power from resistor wire, it gets approximately 9 volts from the battery instead of 12 volts. If you connect your fan there, your Mustang might stall when the fan comes on. Get your power from the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid. If that doesn't work for your application, source the power from one of the power terminals underdash that's live only when the ignition is on. Always protect your Mustang with a fuse or circuit breaker between the power source and fan.

Editor's note: Lance Morgan specializes in electrical diagnosis and repair for '65-'73 Mustangs at his shop in Edmond, Oklahoma. With more than 30 years of experience, we figured he was the right guy to tell us about the problems he sees again and again. Lance operates the Mustang Grabber Registry Web site at www.1970mgr.org as well. The Web site also includes electrical tips, such as installing headlight relays.

Few endeavors can intimidate or frighten '65-'73 Mustang owners more than diagnosing an electrical problem. To most, Mustang wiring and harnesses are complex mysteries. In actuality, the vintage Mustang's wiring system is an easy area to diagnose and repair.

The electrical arrangement of your Mustang is its nervous system. Each component, bulb, and switch receives an electrical charge, then sends that charge to ground. Each wire's function is to make an electrical component do its job. Some components perform several jobs at once, so they may have more than one wire. It still all goes back to the idea that current flows from the battery to a component, and then to ground, which is a flow of current called a circuit. Each circuit in the system is designed to operate something, whether it's a horn, a brake light, a gauge, or the radio. If a circuit is interrupted or goes the wrong way, then those components won't work properly.

I've worked on '65-'73 Mustang electrical systems since the late '70s. Some problems seem to be common to all Mustangs, especially after the passage of time. Nothing lasts forever, of course, but if the Mustang wiring isn't abused or exposed to the elements, it will last for years.

Ford's wiring system is a pleasure to work with and very efficient in design. The company used simple techniques and color codes to easily follow how the system functions. The wiring schematics, available from Mustang parts vendors, are also easy to follow once you get used to reading them.

The wiring harnesses are about as modular as you can get. Each section plugs into the others to handle all electrical functions. Rarely does a section need to be replaced. If it does, installing a new one is a plug-and-play situation. New replacement harnesses are the only way I recommend rewiring a stock or mostly stock '65-'73 Mustang.

The most common problems typically involve component failures from age and use. Here, we cover some of the most common problems I encounter with '65-'73 Mustangs. Each year has its own distinctive issues, but this should cover most of them. It's also an excellent idea to purchase factory manuals and wiring schematics for your Mustang. Always be sure your wiring is safely wrapped and protected from the elements.

The best tools you can have when diagnosing or repairing electrical problems are patience, confidence, and intuitive thinking. Remember, whatever the problem, it's usually something very simple.

Turn Signal Switch
The turn signal switch is by far the most common source of problems. Most take it for granted, but it does a lot more than you think. The switch is important for horns, turn signals, brake lights, and flashers.

The function of the horns is performed by a pair of small spring-loaded brass pins, or shafts, that contact the inner and outer ring of the horn contacts on the backside of the steering wheel. They complete the circuit to the horns when you press the ring. At the ends of the pins are larger-diameter heads that hold the springs in place, keeping them in contact with the horn rings. One pin is hot all the time, which is why you can honk the horn whether or not the ignition is on. Over time, the heads wear down, and the springs no longer hold the pins. That's when it's time to change the switch. It doesn't hurt to put a thin film of white lithium grease on the horn contact rings.

The function of the turn signals is integral with the function of the brake lights. When the turn signal switch is in its center or neutral position, the circuit for both brake lights is complete; when you press the brake pedal, both brake lights will light. This is also important for the flashers.

When you turn on a turn signal-let's say the left one-two things happen. First, the circuit for the left brake light is interrupted, and second, the circuit of that brake light is connected to the turn signal flasher and the flashing sequence begins. This is why when you're stopped with the left turn signal on, the left brake light flashes but the right brake light stays on. The nighttime dimmer taillights are unaffected.

Sometimes a brake light won't work because the switch has failed internally or has become weak. The weight of the turn signal lever can take it just past center, thus interrupting the brake light circuit but not quite starting the flashing sequence. It can be a real puzzler. In this case, the switch must be replaced.

Dash Lights Don't Work
The dash lights get their current from the headlight switch. Current flows from the battery to a headlight-switch contact; through a rheostat on a white, ceramic turn wheel; then to the bulbs. The rheostat is a small circular spring installed in the ceramic wheel that dims or brightens the dash lights as you turn the headlight-switch knob. The spring can get rusty or faulty and cause dead spots or not light the bulbs at all. In this case, the switch needs to be replaced.

In '65-'68 Mustangs, the instrument-cluster housing grounds to the car when it's installed, so keep that in mind when testing. Sometimes you need to attach a ground wire from the housing to the dash frame to perform a good test of the bulbs. The '69-'73 Mustang dash lights ground through the printed circuit board.

Fuel, Temp, or Oil Gauges Don't Work
Your gauges are really very simple. Current flows from the ignition switch to a device called a constant voltage regulator, to the gauge, and then to a sending unit. The voltage regulator changes the 12-volt current to a pulsing lower-voltage signal and then sends it to the gauge. The sending unit of that gauge acts as the ground to complete the circuit. It increases or decreases the quality of the ground, and the gauge reads the average voltage of the circuit through the pulses. If a gauge isn't working and it's definitely a good gauge, it either isn't getting the pulse from the voltage regulator or the sending unit is faulty.

Check the voltage regulator with a test light by checking for 12 volts or a pulsing signal. If all is well, examine the sending unit by removing its boot terminal and testing it for the pulsing signal. If you have a pulsing signal, then your sending unit is bad. If you have no signal at all, then the gauge is at fault. You can test your gauge by grounding the sending unit's boot terminal directly to ground to quickly see if the gauge reads all the way. If it does, it's okay. Don't let it stay grounded for long or you could damage it.

Another problem is that gauges may not be perfectly centered in the cluster housing, allowing one or both of the posts to touch the edge of the opening. If the hot post touches, it can short the gauge and it won't read properly. If the sending-unit post touches, the gauge will jump to full when you turn the key. The gauges must be perfectly centered with the posts not touching the metal cluster housing.

Won't Start
It's frustrating to hop into your Mustang, turn the key, and nothing happens. There are a number of things that could be the problem, but nothing that can't be diagnosed and fixed.

If nothing is happening or there is a clicking sound from underhood, the first thing to do is get a test light, remove the boot terminal from the starter solenoid terminal marked "S"- usually a red-with-blue-stripe wire-and have someone turn the key while you test the terminal to see if the light turns on. If it doesn't, the start circuit from the ignition switch is at fault. In that case, either the ignition switch is bad or the circuit in that red and blue wire needs to be checked. If your Mustang has an automatic transmission, the neutral safety switch could also be bad.

If the test bulb does light, the problem is either the starter solenoid, the battery, the starter, or any of the connections. You'd be surprised how many times I've solved this problem by removing the battery cables to clean its posts and cable ends. Above all else, the battery cables and posts need to be clean and tight. The best tool for this is a post cleaner you can buy at any auto parts store. It has a wire brush for cleaning the inside of the cables and a circular wire brush to spin on top of the battery posts. Install the cables and make sure they're tight. Now try to start your Mustang.

If that doesn't cure the problem, check the battery. Measure the current from the positive side to the negative side with a voltometer. If the voltage is below 12V, the battery needs to be charged or replaced. With a charged battery, the car should start.

Battery Not Charging
Checking your charging system is an easy task. All you need are the tools to remove the battery cables and a voltmeter. The first thing I check when a battery isn't charging is the current draw. To do this, remove the positive cable from the battery, then connect a voltmeter with the red positive clip touching the battery positive post and the black negative clip touching the removed positive battery cable. The voltmeter should read 0 volts. If you get anything close to 12 volts, something is turned on or shorted, draining the battery as the car sits.

Next, make sure the battery is receiving a charge from the alternator. Start the car and connect the voltmeter with the red clip touching the positive battery post and the black clip touching the negative battery post. You should see from 13.5 to 15 volts. If it's less than 13 volts, the alternator or the regulator is at fault.

One thing to remember about the charging system: never remove battery cables from the battery posts while the engine is running. This can blow a diode in your alternator or cause other problems. Some people use this method to see if the alternator is working. Don't do this. If you get the 13.5 or so volts at the battery while the engine is running, the alternator and regulator are working.

Bad Connections
Bad connections can often cause the signs that indicate a component problem. Over time, the fuse panel can get rusty or the tabs that hold them fatigue and the fuses don't make good contact. If the holding tabs are rusty, they need to be wire-brushed, then treated with a cleaner such as WD-40. I've solved a number of problems by popping the fuses out of the holders, spraying the fuse panel, and reinstalling them. If the holding tabs don't hold the fuse tight, they can be gently bent closer together to hold better. When spraying the panel, I coat the backside as well. Be sure the battery is disconnected.

Every now and then I come across a fuse wrapped with a chewing gum wrapper or aluminum foil. This isn't a solution. If a fuse is blowing, there's a reason. Without the protection of the fuse, a wire or wires in that circuit can get too hot and melt, taking other wires with it. Find the problem and fix it or leave the fuse out until it's fixed.

Connectors themselves can become loose and not make good contact. Sometimes I take a thin knife blade and slightly bend the terminal to make it tighter on the component. Other times, I use a pair of needle-nose pliers to gently squeeze the terminals together.

Bad Grounds
This sort of goes along with bad connections. As I mentioned earlier, a circuit is the flow of current from the battery to a component, and then to ground. If all goes well up to the component, a bad ground can make the circuit incomplete. Some things ground through the wiring harnesses. The harnesses have ground wires and ring terminals strategically placed throughout the car. Some things, such as taillight-bulb sockets, ground to the metal where they install. Just make sure the surface is clean and free from rust or paint.

Flickering Dash Lights or Headlights
Other than faulty connections or a bad alternator, sometimes this can be caused by a low battery. If a battery isn't holding a charge, the system keeps trying to charge it. Check the battery first and you may find the weak point.

Sometimes the headlight switch can be the cause. It contains an internal breaker that can get too hot and fail, causing headlights to flicker or go out. The lighting system is the hardest draw, designed for the headlights of the day. Today's halogen headlights are brighter, pulling more power and stressing the system. You may want to consider installing relays on the headlight circuits.

What's the secret to hidden horsepower? Who cares? This engine-building effort is all about torque-street torque-and how to get a lot of it from your small-block Ford V-8 without spending a fortune. It's called making the most of low displacement using the right parts, building technique, and factory iron heads.

Would you like to know more?

The Summit Racing/MCE Engines 331 Stealth small-block is the brainchild of our good friend Marvin McAfee of Marvin's Competition Engines (MCE) in Los Angeles, California. Marvin conceived this engine with his closest associates using a lifetime of experience as an engine builder and craftsman. This vision was to build a rock-solid small-block that would make 350-400 hp, with potential for approximately 100 more, using factory iron cylinder heads. He envisioned the perfect Mustang power package with plenty of power for a 3,200-pound automobile that could, with the right chassis, driveline, and driving technique, crack the quarter-mile in 11-12 seconds at 110-120 mph, yet be docile enough for the street on pump gas. Yes: pump gas, and yes: iron Ford heads.

"We don't like the research and development approach to engine building," he tells us, "We don't like guesswork either. However, we do like going with what we know works from proven experience." Marvin has built a number of 347ci stroker engines in his time. He's also built an untold number of 289 and 302ci small-blocks in this engine's 44-year history. But he is quick to tell us he prefers the underdog: the 331ci stroker package in a 289/302 block.

Marvin used his cache of aftermarket catalogs and visited the Web for inspiration. He focused on Summit Racing Equipment, Comp Cams, Probe Industries, Mustangs Plus, PowerHeads, Edelbrock, MSD Ignition, and Holley. From this list of aftermarket companies and help from a lot of local talent, Marvin became the architect for torque. He came up with the name Stealth to describe his 331ci engine-building effort because it is invisible: that right-cross black eye we weren't expecting from an iron-head small-block. Stealthy performance because it is the unexpected: a small-block with modest displacement that makes big-inch horsepower and torque.

So how does a 331ci mill make 400 hp and 400 lbs-ft of torque? To Marvin's way of thinking, it's simple high school physics. "Our recipe leans toward more go and less show, which is a MCE hallmark. We want to build a kick-ass 331ci street engine with a healthy dose of durability without having to take out a second mortgage on the house and sell one of the kids." He adds that if you are building an engine with the intent of making more power, invest in a strong bottom end to grow with. It costs money but is well-spent if there are big plans for more power later.

If the beer and pretzel budget won't allow a bulletproof bottom end that can take 500-plus horsepower, you can still achieve 400/400 with a nodular iron crank, forged I-beam rods, and hypereutectic pistons for street and Saturday night strip fun. Just remember that 400/400 is the maximum power you can throw at these pieces in a stock block. Anything more is courting catastrophic failure.

Stealthy Formula For Success
"Everybody loves horsepower-the more the better," Marvin tells us. "Producing horsepower isn't a secret. Take torque and rpm, multiply these numbers together, and then divide it by 5,252. If you're going to perform on the racetrack, more horsepower is mandatory. On the street it's unnecessary. You need torque on the street to get respect." So how to get torque from a 331-inch small-block? And how to get even more horsepower and torque later if you decide to go racing? Marvin and the MCE performance team show us how.

Marvin admits there are two approaches to making 400 hp: liberal budget and conservative budget. You can make 400 hp and 400 lbs-ft of torque from a 289/302-based block with a low-buck 331-inch stroker kit and nodular iron crank, I-beam rods, and hypereutectic pistons. However, this is the package's service ceiling. For 100-200 more horsepower and an equal amount of torque, you're going to need a stronger block, steel crank, bulletproof rods, and forged pistons. This is what Marvin has specified to achieve a platform with potential for growth. He is building a powerful 400/400 small-block with a plan for 100/100 more using iron heads. He doesn't want it to break on the dyno because he chose to do it on the cheap. He invested wisely in a strong bottom end he could build on.

Block Party

Iron Heads And A Hot Roller Cam
You might be lulled into believing aftermarket aluminum heads are necessary to achieve 400/400, but Marvin proves otherwise. Make 400 honest horsepower and 400 lbs-ft of torque with ported Ford 289/302 cylinder-head iron castings. PowerHeads performs a CNC-port job, along with a five-angle valve job that includes hardened exhaust valve seats, new guides, and new stainless steel 1.94/1.60-inch valves. Comp Cams has provided Marvin with 100 percent of the valvetrain system, which includes dual springs with dampers, steel retainers and keepers, and a hydraulic roller camshaft long on torque. Marvin chose a Milodon dual-roller timing set. Comp Cams 1.7:1-ratio roller rockers were also inspected and blueprinted by Marvin. ARP screw-in rocker-arm studs with guide plates get everything square on top.

Marvin has opted for an aggressive hydraulic roller camshaft that gives him a lot of lift (.544) and enough duration (212 intake, 218 exhaust at .050 lift), with a lobe separation of 112 degrees that provides ample low-speed vacuum for power brakes, and other accessories we need on the street.

Heads Up!

Bumpstick Be-Bop

Induction
Marvin goes back to basic high-school physics. Engines are air pumps, he tells us. The power made is directly affected by how much air and fuel we can huff and ignite in the combustion chambers. Induction is the all-important beginning of this process. Marvin opted for the new Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake manifold, which offers all of the same features as the Performer RPM, as well as getting the manifold runners off the engine for a cooler intake charge. Marvin has also chosen a 750-cfm Holley carburetor with vacuum secondaries fed by a Holley 110-gph fuel pump.

MCE Builds The Stealth 331
We've already addressed many of the important elements of power: the recipe that is the 331 Stealth small-block from Summit Racing and MCE. We've shown you the block, the reciprocating internals, the cam and valvetrain, the iron Ford heads, the induction package, and the oiling system. Now, we're going to address the many fundamentals of a spot-on engine build.

Engine Building 101

These pesky details may seem like overkill, but when reviewing the remains of a failed engine, it's no comfort to realize you should have sweated the details. Detail is of utmost importance in any engine build.

Next month, we'll continue our Summit Racing/MCE Engines 331 Stealth build in Part 2 with more details important to engine integrity, reliability, and power. Then we'll put this engine on Westech's dyno for a polygraphic look at how power is made, and how we can sometimes come up short for reasons not immediately apparent.

Who Is Marvin McAfee?
If you're familiar with the racing world around Los Angeles, you know Marvin McAfee. Marvin is outspoken and extraordinarily-talented with a mindset for engine science. Marvin's Competition Engines has been around since the '60s and has been building engines for a fortunate few ever since. When Boss 302 Mustangs and Z-28 Camaros were tearing up the SCCA Trans Am circuit in 1969-1970, Marvin was there building the powerful engines that made these cars and their drivers legendary. When the jet age was unfolding during the '50s and '60s, Marvin was building, installing, and testing jet engines and the aircraft they powered. His disciplined psyche was born of knowing when to forego the short cut. Marvin has never given in to a clock or a budget in his engine building philosophy. It's logic rooted in his aerospace and racing background. If he can't build it right, he doesn't build it.

Marvin maintains his shop in a quiet Los Angeles neighborhood where he's been building engines since the dawn of the baby boom. There, he passionately burns the midnight oil, learning and practicing everything he can toward engine building excellence. This may sound like a puff job, but Marvin has touched our knowledge of engines like no one else has in 20 years of automotive journalism. He has taught us much in the short time we've known him. Our experiences with him have been extraordinary, and he's become an extraordinary friend. Marvin is the teacher and we are the students. Let class begin. -Jim Smart

Likely the greatest bargain is the '87-'93 Mustang GT or 5.0. You can get into one for chump change because there are so many available on the used-car market. It's another example of the law of supply and demand. If you're sprucing up a Fox-body Mustang, there are all kinds of modifications that will make it stand out. White-face instruments are one way to get there-and for not much money, either. We'll show you how.

In 1965, the Mustang's interior was considered well equipped. Standard equipment included gauges, a sporty three-spoke steering wheel, and carpet in a time when many cars had nothing more than a rubber mat. Options included a console, an AM/FM radio, and an Interior Dcor Group that added plusher seats, sportier door panels, and a woodgrain instrument bezel and glovebox door. Later Mustangs got high-back bucket seats and nicer radios, even power windows for '71-'73.

But that was then and this is now. Compared to today's modern new cars, vintage Mustang interiors are relatively spartan. Thanks to the current restomod aftermarket, there's plenty of upgrading that can be done on early Mustangs, from power windows and modern stereos to carbon-fiber seat materials.

Classy Consoles
To complement '65-'73 Mustang interiors, TMI Products has created a new line of drop-in consoles. Designed to sit on the transmission hump between the bucket seats, the consoles provide an elbow rest, additional storage, and a pair of cup holders. Similar to the rest of the company's product line, the consoles are made with authentic factory colors and fabrics to ensure they match the rest of the interior.

Sport Seats
TMI Products has taken the lead when it comes to vintage Mustang seats, upholstery, and door panels. Not only does the company offer quality reproduction products for concours-type restorations, but it has also developed a number of restomod items, including the popular Sport Seat upholstery, foam, and headrests for '65-'67 Mustangs. Designed to look similar to the original seats, the TMI Sport Seat conversion provides a racier appearance and more support with larger bolsters on the seat bottoms and backs. "These seats bring classic styling with modern performance to the restoration market," says TMI Sales and Marketing Manager Dean Satterfield. Sold in packaged sets, the Sport Seat upholstery is available in a broad selection of cover materials and designs that make it easy to recreate the original Mustang look or custom design a unique interior.

Totally Digital
Upgrading from vintage dial gauges to modern and more accurate digital gauges is easy these days with the fully outfitted Mustang gauge bezels from Dakota Digital. Available for '65-'73 Mustangs, the Dakota Digital instruments come with new factory bezels equipped with blue or teal digital read-out gauges. The '65-'66 gauge packages utilize a speedometer and tachometer in the center pod with fuel, volt, water temperature, and oil pressure gauges. Bezels are available in black camera-case or woodgrain finishes for standard and GT applications. The '67-'68 packages, available in camera-case or deluxe (brushed aluminum in '67 and woodgrain in '68), have a separate speedo and tach with water temperature, volt, and oil pressure gauges. For '69-'70, the speedo and tach are separate; the outside gauges are doubled up with fuel/volt and oil pressure/water temp gauges. The three-pod '71-'73 panel incorporates oil pressure and water temperature with the tach in the left pod; fuel and volts are in the speedometer on the right. The small center pod houses a clock. Dakota Digital instrument clusters are available from most Mustang parts vendors.

Fancy Sill Plates
Now you can light up your inner world with illuminated sill plates from Scott Drake Mustang Parts. Available for '65-'68 Mustangs, the plates feature a custom horse logo that illuminates in red when the doors are open. To complement the glow, they're made from 304 stainless steel, as opposed to the lightweight aluminum of the originals, with a bright polished finish. Easy to install, the sill plates also include brushed GT-type stripes. They're available wherever Scott Drake products are sold.

Safety Times Three
Comfort and convenience are at the top of the list when adding modern mods to a Mustang interior, but safety should also be considered. After all, older Mustangs don't have airbags, padded steering wheels, or many of the other safety features found on newer cars. Lap belts became standard equipment on Mustangs in '66, followed by difficult-to-use shoulder harnesses in '68. Thanks to Custom Accessories, you can add retractable three-point seatbelts, front and rear, to vintage Mustangs. Available in more than a dozen popular colors to match nearly every Mustang interior, they meet all U.S. Federal safety standards for replacement belts. Installation utilizes factory seatbelt mounting points, along with new mounting points for the retractors.

Two-Tone Panels
TMI keeps the restomod products coming for vintage Mustangs. With two-tone standard door panels, it's easy to make an interior statement in '65-'69 Mustangs without the expense of custom upholstery. Designed to replicate the original equipment door panels, the new versions offer the look of a deluxe interior upgrade for about the same price as regular ones. Authentic colors are used for easy matching to original interior colors. Two versions are offered, one with a full inner section or another with a smaller upper strip only.

Rally Buckets
Few modifications make a bigger difference in a Mustang interior than a pair of racing-style bucket seats. Among the most popular for vintage Mustangs are the Scat ProCar Rally versions from Mustangs Plus. They look sportier than factory seats, and with pronounced shoulder and thigh bolsters, they keep you planted during hard cornering. High-density foam over a tubular steel frame maintains the seat shape and provides maximum comfort. Adaptors for installation are included.

Mustang Mini-Tach
Here's a neat way to add a tachometer to a '67-'68 Mustang without strapping a Monster tach to the steering column or going through the hassle of changing out the wiring harness for a hard-to-find factory tach. Australia's Retrogauge offers a Mini-Tach that fits in the '67-'68 Mustang's center instrument panel opening in place of the crosshair blank or clock. With the original-style Mustang typeface and red needle on a black background, the tach looks as though it came from the factory. Available in 0-6,000 and 0-8,000 versions, it's available from Mustangs, Etc. for $79, plus shipping from Australia.

Upholstered Package Trays
TMI Products has added upholstered package trays for '65-'68 Mustang hardtops to its extensive line of Mustang interior parts. "Our new coupe package trays bring a custom, finished look to an interior by replacing the painted fiberboard factory package trays with a more refined version, upholstered to perfectly match the rest of the interior," says TMI's Dean Satterfield. "Everyone knows that it's the fine details that can really make or break a project, and this is one of the easiest ways to bring a truly 'finished' look to an interior." Available with or without cutouts for stereo speakers, the new package trays are made of tough Masonite and covered with TMI's automotive grade vinyls. The kits are easy to install and come in original Mustang colors and patterns, as well as TMI's new carbon-fiber-look and brushed-aluminum-look vinyls.

Stealthy AM/FM
Part of the fun with restomodding is adding stealthy modifications. It doesn't get much better than the new USA-66 AM/FM radio from Custom Auto Sound. The radio looks identical to the factory's optional '65-'66 AM/FM, right down to the sliding AM/FM bar, push buttons, and analog dial. But behind the USA-66's original appearance lies 200 watts of stereo power along with a dedicated input for CA's 10-disc CD changer, an auxiliary input for iPods and other MP3 players, and line-out connections for an amplifier. Best of all, the radio mounts perfectly into the '65-'66 Mustang's original instrument panel opening.

Racy Gauges
Owners have been replacing the fluctuating factory gauges with more accurate aftermarket ones ever since the first Mustangs rolled off the Dearborn assembly line. Today, JME Enterprises makes it easy to upgrade with billet-aluminum bezels filled with Auto Meter instruments, including the speedometer, tach, fuel level, oil pressure, water temperature, voltage, and so on, depending on the model year. Various finishes are available for '65-'66, '67-'68, and '69-'70 Mustangs, including black camera case, woodgrain, brushed aluminum, and carbon fiber. The JME clusters come assembled and prewired for simple installation. Check the Web site at www.jmeenterprises.com to view the different combinations and finishes.

Shelby Style
Upgrading from a stock steering wheel to a wood Shelby version is as popular today as it was in the '60s. Mustangs Plus now offers a Shelby-style steering wheel that features classic styling in combination with today's quality components. The 15-inch lightweight steering wheel is aluminum framed and finished with a beautiful wood rim, complete with finger notches. It fits all '65-'73 Mustangs.

Shelby Pod
In 1965, Carroll Shelby realized that the Mustang needed more instrumentation for sporty driving, so he created a special pod to house two gauges-a tachometer and a smaller oil pressure-on the center of the instrument panel. The Shelby-style gauge pods are still available today from companies such as Tony D. Branda Mustang and Shelby Parts. For keeping modern tabs on things, you can install an Auto Meter 311/42-inch Sport Comp tach and a 2-inch Auto Meter oil pressure gauge.

Pony Up
Ford was restomodding the Mustang long before owners thought of it. One of the original Mustang modifications was the Dcor Interior Group, which was added to the Mustang's option list midyear in '65 and continued through '66. Better known today as Pony interior, the upgraded and more luxurious interior included door panels with molded-in armrests, specially bolstered seats with unique running horses on the seatbacks (thus the "Pony" identification), woodgrain instrument panel and glovebox door, simulated-wood steering wheel, and chrome-trimmed pedals. Today, K.A.R. Auto Group makes it easy to upgrade to the Dcor interior with a Pony interior conversion kit for less than $1,700.

Race-Inspired Seating
The carbon-fiber look remains popular with Mustang restomodders, so TMI Products has taken it to the seats with racing-inspired carbon-fiber-look seat upholstery and door panels. Offered with an expanded color pallet, the carbon-fiber upholstery is tough and durable with extruded cord and thick vinyl with a knitted cross-linked backing for extra strength.

Stainless Panels
Haneline specializes in engine-turned stainless steel dashpanels, so it's no surprise that the company offers several options for vintage Mustang owners. For '65-'66s, Haneline produces an ABS plastic instrument panel, with or without gauges, with stainless panels. The panel for '67-'68 Mustangs comes with six Teleflex-domed gauges. Matching inserts for the rest of the instrument panel are also available. The '69-'70 version doesn't include the engine-turned stainless steel; customers provide their housing so Haneline can install and prewire an electric speedometer, tach, oil pressure/water temperature and fuel/volt.

Power to the Windows
When the word "restomod" was conceived, it was generally used as a term to describe updating older vehicles with modern components. Power windows certainly fit that description. The '65-'70 Mustangs weren't available with power windows, but Electric-Life makes it possible today with a power-window conversion. Available from National Parts Depot, the kit includes new window regulators with electric motors to power the side glass up and down. Installation is a matter of replacing the factory regulators and wiring the motors. A variety of switches are available that can be mounted in the door panels or console.

Sport Headrests
TMI Products' replacement headrests are designed to retro-fit any '65-'67 Mustang with original seats. The OEM-style headrests come in all of TMI's authentic Mustang interior colors and materials, as well as custom two-tone combinations, including the new carbon-fiber-look vinyls. Sold in pairs, the headrests replicate the original factory look and complement the Mustang's original seat style and upholstery. They also feature four-level height adjustment, four-way angle position adjustment, and simple two-bolt and nut attachment to the original '65-'67 Mustang seat frame.

Kick Panel Music
From 1965-1966, most radio stations broadcast on the AM frequency, so hi-fi sound reproduction wasn't needed. Except for models with factory AM/FM or AM/eight-track tape players, which came with speakers mounted in the doors, most Mustangs were equipped with a single speaker in the dash. That just doesn't cut it in today's world of CDs and iPods. Because there's limited space in the kick panel area, Custom Auto Sound offers replacement kick panels with speakers built in. Designed to replace the factory kick panels, the CAA versions come with 611/42-inch two-way speakers capable of handling 80 watts. An upgrade to Pioneer 120-watts speakers is available. The kick-panel speakers are also available for '67-'68 Mustangs.

Luminescent Viewing
Scott Drake Mustang Parts now offers a Luminescent Gauge Panel Set for '67-'68 Mustangs. Not only does it add the sporty looks of white-face gauges, but the gauges glow. The light intensity and color can be changed with a dedicated controller. The woodgrain-faced instrument panel includes a 6,000 rpm tach, a 120 mph speedometer, and a clock.

We've known Brant Halterman of Virginia Classic Mustang (VCM) for more than 20 years. I met him in 1986 at the Mustang Club of America Grand National at Valley Forge, Pennsylvania, where I photo-graphed his '65 Poppy Red 289 High Performance convertible. It was hard not to notice the impeccable craftsmanship demonstrated by Brant and his father, and for two decades, we've looked to VCM for spot-on products and seasoned technical support.

Case in point is this Turbo 2 1/4-inch dual exhaust system. When we called Brant to ask him about a bolt-on exhaust system for a '67 Mustang with 289 Hi-Po exhaust manifolds, we knew he would have the answer. The '67 was equipped with a dual exhaust system from a local muffler shop. Despite being custom-fabricated, the tailpipes interfered with the rear axle, the entire system resonated at idle, and there was a leak at one of the manifolds caused by an improperly flared pipe.

Brant suggested VCM's 2 1/4-inch Turbo dual exhaust system. What we liked most about the system was its mandrel-bent pipes, galvanized mufflers, and corrosion-resistant hardware. That's why Brant uses the supplier that makes these exhaust systems-he's a classic-Mustang enthusiast and restorer, and he's picky about quality and fit. That's what we needed for this system.

Another cool thing about exhaust systems from VCM is flexibility. You can use the company's own Turbo mufflers or someone else's, such as Flowmaster.

Complete exhaust systems from VCM retail for approximately $350 to $400 and are worth every penny. A custom exhaust system at a local shop will cost you upwards of $400-$600, but the product doesn't always match the price. Rarely will those other systems have mandrel-bending and the correct classic-Mustang hardware. Most of the time, they have generic components and a poor fit. With a complete system from Virginia Classic Mustang, however, there will be an original-equipment look and fit.

Headlight technology of the '60s is nothing compared to what's available today. Similar to other automotive components such as tires, suspension, engine pieces, and safety equipment, headlights have improved in leaps and bounds since the first Mustangs were built in 1964.

Speaking of safety equipment, headlights are among the most critical pieces of safety gear on a car. Upgrading them is not only cool in terms of appearance and driving enjoyment, but they need to be done correctly for nighttime driving. Lights on most older cars are almost always lacking when it comes to nighttime driving.

After chatting around the editorial water cooler, we thought it a good idea to examine the subject of better headlights for vintage Mustangs. There's more to it than just installing new headlights on an early car. The electrical wiring isn't designed to handle the power draw of modern halogen and xenon headlights. Here we focus on wiring since swapping a headlight is little more than changing a household light bulb.

At one point, we were won-dering what path to take on this subject until we came across a custom lighting kit designed specifically for vintage Mustangs. Offered by Reenmachine, the package consists of a pair of Hella high-performance halogen H4 headlights and a modern high-output, relay-driven wiring harness.

The key to the system is a harness that essentially bypasses the car's existing headlight wiring and employs the new wiring for a safe and effective upgrade. We couldn't wait to get to Reenmachine in Ventura, California, to cover the installation on shop owner Pete Waydo's '66 Mustang six-cylinder coupe, which is driven daily.